Secrets are what a secret is

Posted on June 30, 2012


It’s the end of June and my feet are still white. Even by British standards, the weather has been the hottest trending topic with everyone you meet. As surfers we are profoundly effected by the arbitrary moods of the weather or more specifically the wind and the consequences it has as it passes over the oceans. Wind produces swell and when the swell reaches the land, wind can groom the swell to make it smooth and bring joy to a group of nut jobs who ride waves. Although sunshine doesn’t influence the quality of the surf, somehow riding waves with the sun out is just THE custard (on a rhubarb crumble).

For surf photographers light is everything of course. That’s why these pix will never make it to print. Even though this is a rarely surfed, ‘ once a year’, semi-secret break (normally it only gets big and wild enough in the depths of winter) and the current British champion is ripping the brackish storm swell, there’s no light and therefore the images are flat looking.

Even the turning the image into black and white doesn’t help much.

Click on the images to make them bigger.

Canon 7D and 1D mkll c/w EF 600mm f4L IS and EF 70-300mmL IS f4-5.6